Snowdon from Pen-y-Pass

 

Difficulty : HardDuration : 4.5 HrsDistance : 11.5 Km

 
Starting at a lofty height of 359M above sea level from Pen-y-Pass, makes this ascent of Wales's highest mountain extremely favourable among walkers. From Pen-y-Pass there are three ascent routes to Snowdon, those being the Miners Track, Pyg Track and the best but also most difficult Crib Goch. For those who choose the Crib Goch ascent this unique experience involves an exciting scramble to the summit of Crib Goch then a knee trembling walk across the knife edge ridge to a climb over the pinnacles, then on to bag the Welsh 3000 summit of Garnedd Ugain at 1065M then joining the more popular routes on towards the summit of the highest mountain in Wales. For those who prefer an easier and less tasking option of ascent there is the Miners Track and Pyg Track both of which take in some fantastic views over the glacial lakes as they slowly climb through the glacial hollow that has created Snowdon's famous horseshoe. A word of warning, serious weather conditions the Crib Goch route should only be taken by those who have experience of ridge walking and scrambling in such conditions and in the right gear. On a bad day simply do one of the easier ascents or come back another day to do Crib Goch as it will not go away.


Full route description for this walk

 

The starting point for the trek is the car park at Pen-y-Pass, situated at the top of the Llanberis Pass on the A4086 road. The car park fills up very quickly on busy days especially in the summer. Its popularity is due to many factors, the most important being its lofty position which cuts almost a third off the total ascent of any alternate starting point. So to make sure you get your space and save yourself the unnecessary ascent, get there very early. The Pen-y-Pass car park is the start of three popular routes up Snowdon, those being the Pyg Track, Miners Track and of course Crib Goch.

If the Pen-y-Pass car park is full then I recommend you park down the hill on the side of the A498 road where there is plenty of road side parking, then make your way up to Pen-y-Pass from there. There are also options of parking in the Nant Peris car park at the bottom of the Llanberis Pass from where a park and ride bus service runs to and from the Pen-y-Pass car park at a reasonable price.

At Pen-y-Pass you will see the Pen-y-Pass youth hostel, a well known hostel in the world of mountaineering, it has housed many a famous climber and walker and even boasts a most famous guest by the name of George Mallory who in the 1920's led three British expeditions to Mount Everest. The hostel is steeped in history and a warm and welcoming place to stay.

Pen-y-pass from Pyg Track

Pen-y-pass

Bwlch y Moch Pyg Track Stile

Bwlch y Moch Stile

From the car park take a path that is clearly indicated as being the Pyg Track which heads in a westerly direction out of the car park. If the easiest option is preferred then take the Miners Track that leads south away from the car park. The Pyg Track is a well laid path as it is well preserved and has to be due to the large numbers of walkers it takes through the year so the way ahead is very clear. The Pyg Track ascends slowly along the top of the Llanberis Valley with amazing panoramic views down the valley and heads towards Bwlch y Moch. The path will finally reach a ladder stile over a small fence where the view to the left shows most of the profiling outline of the Snowdon Horseshoe and the summit itself on a clear day.

The Snowdon Horseshoe is a result of a glacial hollow by the name of Cwm Dyli, one of many glacial hollows around Snowdon which give it its exciting starfish shape when viewed from above. The lake below is the lake of Llyn Llydaw and shelved above it in the hollow is Glaslyn. Both lakes have a unique blue colour which despite looking somewhat mystical is simply due to the open shafts and workings of the victorian copper mines that are scattered around the shores of both lakes. The high copper content of the waters also means that there is hardly any life in the deep cold copper contaminated lakes. Llyn Llydaw is also said to be the setting of King Arthur's encounter with the Lady Of The Lake in the legendary Excalibur.

At the stile on Bwlch y Moch at 569M the Pyg Track continues ahead on its slow ascent of Snowdon's massif. However to the right is a much smaller and less defined path that heads off towards the steep ascent of Crib Goch. It is at this point you need to decide whether the conditions are okay and company present are going to be able to handle what's ahead, if not then simply follow the Pyg Track all the way to Snowdon's summit as it steadily climbs the flanks of Crib Goch past Llyn Llydaw and eventually joins the Miners Track from the left, taking care on the final zig zags above Glaslyn in icy conditions. The Pyg Track and Miners Track top out at the Finger Stone on Bwlch Glas at which point you turn left following the railway to reach the summit. So for the Crib Goch route take the smaller path as it leads off in a slight North West direction heading towards the steep ascent of Crib Goch. The path is at first well defined as there is still soft ground where boots have trodden a clear path. However the further, higher and steeper the path gets the less defined it gets too, until eventually you find yourself using your hands as well as your feet as the exciting scrambling starts. This is Crib Goch at its best, from here on there is no path. This is a 1km long grade 1 scramble at its very best.

Scrambling Crib Goch

Scrambling Crib Goch

Knife Edge Crib Goch

Knife Edge Crib Goch

Once you have scrambled all the way to the top there is a small ledge, most take a well earned rest here. This ledge is often thought of as the summit point of Crib Goch but actually isn't. This ledge is the eastern end of the Crib Goch ridge with a summit height of 921M, the actual summit is 923M above sea level and is situated 200 metres to your west from the initial summit. From the eastern ledge position you will now be able to look west and see the 200 metres that you are about to conquer. Crib Goch's ridge has been likened to a knife edge for many years and you will soon see why people make this terrifying comparison, the ridge is at times inches wide with exposure from huge drops to frighten even the bravest of souls.

From the eastern ledge the ridge leads west, how you tackle it will depend on your courage and will power, the safest way is to follow the crest but in cases of unease simple stay slightly to the left and use the ridge as a hand rail, although this is not recommended for the the full ridge as the slight paths to the left are quite loose. It is important to be aware of other people when on the ridge and be thoughtful of those around, do not pressure people and allow others to go at there own pace, if you are slowed down by someone else just remember where you are, take in the view and remember you have all the time in the world and are in one of the most beautiful places of that world!

Diagram of the Crib Goch Ridge

After tackling the knife edge for 200 metres you will eventually be on the real summit of Crib Goch at 923M and then after another 90 metres of knife edge ridge walking you will come across the first of the three Crib Goch pinnacles, these are best tackled by going straight over as to avoid any loose ground on the side passes. Once over the third and final pinnacle the path will lead down on to the more familiar and safer ground of Bwlch Coch, which at 858M is the col between Crib Goch and the next Welsh 3000 summit ahead of Garnedd Ugain. The view from here of Snowdon's summit is great and the view south towards the truly amazingly shaped peak of Y Lliwedd above Llyn Llydaw is one of the best in Snowdonia.

Now another initially tricky scramble up the eastern side of Garnedd Ugain awaits on front. Garnedd Ugain has its own pinnacles which stand even higher than those on Crib Goch and is likened understandably to a dinosaur back due to the steep and spiny ridge of Crib y Ddysgl. These pinnacles are also best tackled by going straight over them although some may wish to take a route left round them, if you choose this way be sure to immediately climb back up to the crest of the ridge once you have rounded the pinnacles otherwise you will find yourself on very loose and dangerous ground. Once the initially tricky part of the ascent of Garnedd Ugain is complete follow the obvious crest of the ever widening ridge to the summit. You will pass a huge impressive pinnacle on your way that in misty conditions looks like a huge church that appears out of nowhere. After a while you will top out onto the summit of Garnedd Ugain where a trig point cairn can be found at its lofty position of 1065M.

Scrambling Crib y Ddysgl

Scrambling Crib y Ddysgl

Garnedd Ugain Trig Point

Garnedd Ugain Trig Point

Follow the path now that descends slightly in a south westerly direction away from the cairn and eventually meets the Llanberis path and the infamous Snowdon mountain railway track. Follow the path and track left until you pass the Finger Stone on Bwlch Glas, a huge standing slate stone that indicates the top of the Miners Track and Pyg Track which you left earlier. The four paths now continue as one very clear track that follows the railway until you are greeted by the shock of seeing a huge block of concrete. This awful looking mess is the Snowdon summit cafe and railway station. Although a horrible looking thing, it can be useful on a freezing cold stormy winters day. A path now leads off left as you reach the cafe and heads up a short climb to the summit of Snowdon or Yr Wyddfa as the locals would prefer. At 1085M the highest point in Wales.

On a clear day it is said you can see 4 countries from the summit as in those of Wales, England, Scotland and Ireland, and of course not forgetting the Isle Of Man. The summit is a very controversial part of welsh mountain history and the introduction of the railway and summit cafe have been a cause of many arguments in the walking world. Seeing the concrete mess for yourself I'm sure you will gather your own views, personally I am not a fan, although on the other hand I do not see why those less able should not be allowed to enjoy those views us healthier beings are able to admire. I am not a fan of people who believe that the mountains and views should only be shared by healthy people prepared to spend hundreds on the proper gear and I do not put my nose up at anyone on the hills no matter what they are wearing, however I do believe in preserving a natural looking environment which is hardly achieved by a huge mass of ugly concrete.

Snowdon Summit

Snowdon Summit

Crib Goch beyond Snowdon

Crib Goch beyond Snowdon

Despite the controversy surrounding Snowdon's summit you cannot escape the simple fact that this mountain is one of the best places in the world! It is one of, if not the most, varied mountain massif in Britain. It has been shaped by the ages into a starfish arrangement of glacial hollows, knife edge ridges and sheer mountainous walls of rock. After completing Crib Goch and looking back at it from the summit you can appreciate that you have certainly conquered the most exciting ascent route that's to be had on the massif.

To descend you must now follow the path back down the side of the railway track until you eventually reach the Finger Stone at Bwlch Glas once again. This time take the steep path right that now leads down from the Finger Stone towards Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw. This is a very clear and well managed path that zig zags right then left heading down towards the blue waters of Glaslyn. This zig zag section is notoriously dangerous when slippery or icy as despite being well laid, the path contains many larger slabs so take care.

The path continues to head east after the final zig zag and clings onto the side of Garnedd Ugain. Eventually the path splits into two with a path heading down towards Glaslyn. This is where the Miners Track leaves the Pyg Track and heads down towards Glaslyn. The main difference between the two tracks is that the Pyg is best known for its slightly shorter distance and mainly for its height above the lakes which gives it a different perspective to the Miners Track. The Miners Track can however be a little more appealing to some due to its historic industrial ruins and unique lake side views of the Snowdon Horseshoe. So it is completely up to yourself now which route you take from here, I would personally recommend the Miners Track, however if you have little time then the Pyg Track will get you back slightly quicker.

Y Lliwedd Twin Peaks

Y Lliwedd Twin Peaks

Y Lliwedd from Snowdon

Y Lliwedd from Snowdon

To take the quicker Pyg Track option then stay on the path as it hugs the flanks of Garnedd Ugain then Crib Goch before eventually reaching the Bwlch y Moch stile you left earlier in the day. There are a few theories on how the Pyg Track got its name. Probably the most credible of these is that the hotel back in Pen-y-Pass from where the path starts is called Pen-Y-Gwryd. Another theory is that the path gets its name from Bwlch y Moch, passed on the ascent from Pen-y-Pass, which in welsh means Pass of Pigs.

To take the preferred Miners Track option then take the path that leads down to the shores of Glaslyn. The Miners Track simply gets its name from its original use. It was used originally for transporting men and materials to and from the Britannia copper mines that still stand in ruin on the shores of Glaslyn today. Due to its original use, the path is very wide and clear all the way back to Pen-y-Pass The Britannia mine was worked intermittently for around a hundred years from the early 19th to the early 20th century, and most unsuccessfully it must be said. The mine was a financial disaster for various companies who ran the mine.

As the path heads down to the shores of Glaslyn the views from inside the hollow really open up and Snowdon's small pointed summit can be seen towering above your right shoulder. Follow the path still as it leads through the old copper mine ruins, some of which are fascinating, and eventually reaching the shores of the lake at a wide slate shingle beach. The path then follows the Afon Glaslyn as it tumbles down towards Llyn Llydaw.

Llyn Teyrn

Llyn Teyrn

Miners Track

Miners Track

After strolling along the side of Llyn Llydaw and passing a few more industrial ruins the path comes to the causeway which slices Llyn Llydaw into two. In the past this causeway has been known to flood when Llyn Llydaw is higher than normal, however it has been raised to eradicate this problem. Cross the cause way to the track on the other side, the track here being more like a dirt road in places due to its size. As the path goes under the cliffs of Craig Llyn Teyrn on the left it then bends right and passes Llyn Teyrn, a small lake with a dramatic backdrop of Snowdon's prolific outline. From the track you can now see another of Snowdon's nasty scars in the form of the pipe line that runs down into the Nantgwynant Valley. Follow the track now for another mile or so and back to the Pen-y-Pass car park.

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Photos taken on this walk

 
These photo's are taken from a trip with Nicky on July 23rd 2006.


These photo's are taken from a trip by myself on November 13th 2004.


These photo's are taken from a trip with Andy and Woody on June 12th 2004.



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