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Eskdale is one of the Lake District's quieter valleys
due to its location in the west on the other side of
both the Wrynose and Hard Knott road passes. It is well
hidden away from the honey pots of Langdale and Windermere.
The valley is not only absolutely beautiful but also
hides away some fascinating gems like the Ravenglass
and Eskdale steam railway, the Hardknott Roman Fort
and its many picturesque villages with warm and friendly
pubs.
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Eskdale Valley
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Steam train at Dalegarth
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The start of the walk is from Boot, a small village
located just off the main road through Eskdale Valley
and only a few hundred metres from the car park at Dalegarth
Station at the end of the steam railway line. You may
find parking in Boot or close by in one of the many
pubs on a quiet day but if not there is usually plenty
of space at the steam railway station car park.
Follow the main road signposted to the picturesque
village of Boot. Once you have passed the Boot Inn pub
on your left and then the houses to your right you will
find yourself crossing the Whillan Beck on a 17th century
packhorse bridge by the Eskdale Mill. The mill is open
to the public some days and is well worth a look in,
it dates back to 1978.
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Eskdale Mill
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Views over Whillan Beck
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Once over the bridge the track turns right behind the
mill and then left before reaching a gate on the right
that is signposted to Burnmoor Tarn via Coffin Route.
Take this path as it steadily rises passing a wood on
the right as the views then open up to the east looking
over the Whillan Beck valley towards Little and Great
Barrow. After half a mile you will pass through a gate
and the path snakes through open moorland with views
to the East of Eskdale Fell over Whillan Beck.
After just over a miles walk through often wet and
boggy moorland and passing an old stone building on
the left you should reach the remote Burnmoor Tarn.
One of the largest tarns in the Lake District, Burnmoor
Tarn is extremely remote and it is therefore surprising
to see an old settlement here known as Burnmoor Lodge
which was once the home of a local game keeper then
a shooting lodge and now as far as I know abandoned
and disused. It sits silently on the shores of Burnmoor
Tarn at least two miles away from the nearest road,
looking like something out of an Alfred Hitchock movie.
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Burnmoor Lodge
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Burnmoor Tarn
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The bridleway mostly used in the past as a pony route
and a droveway for sheep that you have followed since
Boot Village is better known locally as the Coffin Route.
The route is given its spooky name as it was once the
chosen route that the folk of the then remote village
of Wasdale Head took to the St Catherine's Church in
Boot to bury there dead. So if you feel a chill on your
neck don't stop keep moving.
Pass the Burnmoor Lodge on your left and walk the length
of Burnmoor Tarns eastern shoreline eventually reaching
Bulatt Bridge as it crosses the tarn outflow that becomes
Whillan Beck. On the other side of the bridge a faint
path heads off in a north east direction hand railing
Hardrigg Gill until it reaches a small ruined building
at the end of the Hard Rigg ridge. When you reach this
point carry on up the crest of the ridge taking not
the path that goes right to the Hardrigg Gill valley
but instead taking the path that heads directly up the
crest of the ridge. The path is steep at first but then
levels off on top of the ridge.
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Steep Scafell Ascent
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Views from Scafell
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Follow the ridge in its north westerly direction for
about half a mile until it reaches Green How and joins
the steep path up to Scafell. This path is rough, loose
and steep in places so care should be taken in bad weather.
It is a slog of about 500 metres ascent but once completed
gets you right to the summit of Scafell. Try to take
your time and use the vast and awe inspiring views over
the Wasdale and Eskdale Valleys as an excuse for many
much needed rest breaks.
Once on the top the actual summit and highest point
is just a small clamber over a few rocks to the right.
On a clear day the panoramic views are truly amazing
from Eskdale and the Coniston Fells to the south to
Wasdale and the Western Fells to the west and of course
the high Southern Fells adjoined. The adjoining fells
include Scafell Pike, Broad Crag, Ill Crag, Great End,
Bowfell and Crinkle Crags to the east. All these huge
fells make up a horseshoe of some of the the Lakes highest
mountains which shelter the Upper Eskdale Valley. This
valley is absolute heaven, with no major paths and not
a single bit of human life in sight on a quiet day,
its an amphitheater of huge towering crags, luscious
green valleys and cold snaking streams.
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Slight Side
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Catcove Beck
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After taking in the views from the summit follow the
ridge path south as it heads over Long Green then reaches
the ridges end at Slight Sight, another great place
to sit and admire the views of the Upper Eskdale Valley.
Come south about 30 metres off the summit of Slight
Side and you'll find a path heads down towards Quagrigg
Moss. Take this path to the floor of the valley and
then head south for a mile across the marshy land until
you eventually reach the small stream of Catcove Beck
which leads you into Cat Crag.
At Cat Crag there is a bend in the river where it rounds
a huge slanted boulder. Cross Catcove Beck here and
follow the path on the other side through the crags
and then follow this route known on some maps as the
Terrace Route for about a mile until you come down towards
the Eskdale Valley and the main road through the valley
should be in view. If at Catcove Beck you take the wrong
path and head down too soon just follow the wall right
and you'll eventually meet up with the Terrace Route.
The Terrace Route takes you down to the road at the
Wha House Farm. From here turn right or west and its
a simple road walk back to Boot of about just over a
mile, passing the Woolpack Inn half way.
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Duration
: 7.5 Hrs
