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High Carneddau from Ogwen Valley

 

Difficulty : HardDuration : 7 HrsDistance : 17 Km

 
This walk is one for those who want to experience the highest mountains in Snowdonia without seeing hoards of walkers and tourists along the way. The High Carneddau range is a favourite of the locals due to its lesser significance to day trippers. The Carneddau are still wild and desolate in comparison to there neighbours the Glyders and Snowdon, but the area and what it has to offer is just as good if not better. This walks starts in the busy Ogwen Valley but leaves the valley and heads towards the quiet and beautiful Ffynnon Lloer before taking you up an exciting scramble onto Pen yr Ole Wen. From Pen yr Ole Wen you take on an awesome high ridge walk to three more of Wales highest mountains including Carnedd Llewelyn, the second highest mountain massif in Britain outside of Scotland. The walk is fairly long and involves a lot of ascent, however most of this is done on the initial climb up to Pen yr Ole Wen from where most of the walk is along the high ridge. You could cut the walk shorter by not doing Yr Elen, the walk across to Yr Elen and back takes about an hour.


Full route description for this walk

 

The walk starts in the Ogwen Valley. There are a few buses serving the Ogwen Valley from Bethesda and other local villages and towns. Parking can be found at the foot of Tryfan and all the way along Llyn Ogwen. The best place to park is at the far eastern end of the Llyn Ogwen near Glan Dena. Follow the path along the main road up to the entrance to Glan Dena, take care along this busy stretch of road. A bridge crosses the Afon Denau and heads to to the right of Glan Dena. The road passes Glan Dena then heads behind it towards Tal y LLyn Ogwen farm. On Ordnance Survey maps the path heads up from behind this farm but seems to start after the farm, however a new and well laid path heads up the hill before the farm now and over a stile over a stone wall. This new path meets up with the path clearly seen on the Ordnance Survey maps heading uphill behind the farm.

Pen yr Ole Wen

Pen yr Ole Wen

Ffynnon Lloer

Ffynnon Lloer

It is now basically a case of keeping the fence to your right and heading uphill. After a while you will cross the small stream of Afon Lloer then head up the left side of the stream before coming to a wooden stile over a stone wall. From this stile you can rest and look at the incredible view across to the Glyders and Tryfan. Cross the stile and follow the path heading along the left hand side of the stream. The path steadily flattens out as it gets near the Ffynnon Lloer. If you wish to explore the Ffynnon Lloer and take in the amphitheatre of this incredible glacial cwm then follow the stream.

The objective now is to head up the eastern summit of Pen yr Ole Wen to its summit. From the point where the Afon Lloer enters Ffynnon Lloer there is a rough path heads onto the cliffs to the south. This path heads towards the ridge and ends up being a short scramble to the crest of the eastern ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen. Once the hands on scrambling has ben dealt with and you have picked your way through the many opportunities to the top of the ridge you will find at the south side of the ridge or left as you walk up it a much clearer path heading uphill along the ridge. Take this path as its snakes its way towards the summit and then heads up a simpler and more obvious climb to the summit.

Pen yr Ole Wen summit

Pen yr Ole Wen summit

Snowdon from Pen yr Ole Wen

Snowdon from Pen yr Ole Wen

On the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen is a great panoramic view over the Ogwen Valley to the south towards the Glyders and Snowdon behind. To the west the views open up over the whole of Anglesey to the Irish Sea beyond. To the north, looking over the magnificent Ffynnon Lloer below in the cwm, you will see the rest of the Carneddau range and the ridge leading off the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen towards Carnedd Fach and Carnedd Dafydd. The summit plateau of Pen yr Ole Wen consists of the higher and actual summit to the north and a slightly lower but more interesting summit to the south with a large stone cairn and shelter.

From the higher summit of Pen yr Ole Wen head north west then north along the obvious ridge walk to Carnedd Fach. You will know when you reach Carnedd Fach as it has one of the most impressive ancient stone cairn and shelters you are likely to see. The view back to Pen yr Ole Wen is one of interesting strata in its northern cliff faces too. From Carnedd Fach head along the ridge again and there is a small ascent to reach the summit of Carnedd Dafydd. Carnedd Dafydd is the third highest mountain in Wales. The summit has a small stone cairn.

Carnedd Fach summit

Carnedd Fach summit

Carnedd Dafydd summit

Carnedd Dafydd summit

Leave the summit of Carnedd Dafydd and head in an easterly direction down and onto the ridge now as the Cefn Ysgolion Duon. From the Cefn Ysgolion Duon ridge there is a magnificent view down the Cwm Pen-Llafar valley with the Afon Llafar snaking its way along the flat bottom of the wide open valley towards Bethesda. Looking down from the Cefn Ysgolion Duon you will see its huge cliff walls that are renowned for there serious climbing routes, often referred to as some of the best in Britain, the Black Ladders as they are known. Follow the ridge to its low point where it now starts to head along the Bwlch Cyfryw-drum and then ascends on an easy but steep path to the wide rocky summit of Carnedd Llewelyn where you will find many stone cairns and a large stone shelter. Always keep an eye out on the grassy slopes below in the Carneddau for the famous Carneddau wild ponies, they live semi wild now and are descendants from horses and ponies left behind by the miners in Cwm Eigiau.

Carnedd Llewelyn summit with Carnedd Dafydd beyond

Carnedd Llewelyn summit with Carnedd Dafydd beyond

The summit of Carnedd Llewelyn is the second highest mountain summit in Wales yet it has only a fraction of human visitors in a year compared with most of its nearest counterparts. The mountains name is translated as Llwelyns Cairn. Llwelyn being of Llwelyn ap Gruffordd and Dafydd ap Gruffordd who were once princes of Wales. The neighbouring mountain you have just been to of Carnedd Dafydd being named after his brother Dafydd. The slight change in the forename being of course that the English version is slightly different and unfortunately the one most often used in modern days.

Yr Elen

Yr Elen

Ffynnon Caseg

Ffynnon Caseg

As I said above you can cut the walk short by ignoring this paragraph and not bothering to bag Yr Elen. However if you wish to see Yr Elen then I highly recommend you do so as it is a great view from its summit and you will miss out on the lovely sheltered cwm of Cwm Caseg. To get to Yr Elen isn't as easy as it may seem on a map as the drop is a bit of a negative point as you have to ascend it again on your way back, so therefore only do Yr Elen if you have the energy for the climb back up to Carnedd Llewelyn. One tip is to leave your heavy bag behind on of Carnedd Llewelyns many summit cairns and pick it up on your return. From the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn head north west along the plateau to its north western edge then take the path heading west down to the col between the two mountain. The path will turn into a steep zig zag of loose chippings towards the bottom. From the col you get a great view down right into the sheltered Cwm Caseg and its beautiful lake Ffynnon Caseg. From the col follow the obvious path up the other side to the summit of Yr Elen.

Ffynnon Llugwy

Ffynnon Llugwy

Tryfan above Llyn Ogwen

Tryfan above Llyn Ogwen

The sheltered valley of Cwm Caseg is often home to hundreds of breeding sea birds that struggle to find sheltered spots along the increasingly populated North Wales coast. To get back to Carnedd Llewelyn simply follow the exact same route back down to the col then up the steep ascent of the zig zags and onto its lofty summit plateau again. Head back to the main cairn at the actual summit point of Carnedd Llewelyn. From the summit head south east then east down a very obvious path. The path will eventually reach the rocky ridge of Bwlch Eryl Farchog. From here the views open over the Ffynnon Llugwy reservoir to the right and deep down into Cwm Eigiau on the left. Tackle the short scramble down Bwlch Eryl Farchog which is tricky towards the end and you will eventually flatten out at the low point of the col between Carnedd Llewelyn and Pen yr Helgi Du. From here take the path to the right that zig zags down to Ffynnon Llugwy. The path is rough at first but gets easier at the reservoir. Head to the far end of the reservoir and pick up the service road. Follow the service road down the valley to the main road and turn right to head along the busy road back to the start of the walk.

 

 

 

 

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Photos taken on this walk

 
June 7th 2008 with Nicky.

Tryfan above Llyn Ogwen Tryfan across Llyn Ogwen from Pen yr Ole Wen Walkers on Pen yr Ole Wen ridge Myself with Tryfan and Glyder Fach behind Nicky behind the tent on Pen yr Ole Wen Stunning tent door view to Tryfan Nicky and tent on Pen yr Ole Wen Nicky cooking sausages on Pen yr Ole Wen Sunset over Irish Sea from Pen yr Ole Wen Cloud inversion from morning tent door The tent with cloud covered Lleyn Peninsula beyond The tent with Tryfan beyond Nicky with sun shining out of her backside Myself on Pen yr Ole Wen with Tryfan behind Nicky on Pen yr Ole Wen with Tryfan behind Nicky and Myself on Pen yr Ole Wen with Tryfan beyond Adam and Eve on Tryfan summit with cloud inversion beyond Nicky enjoying life on Pen yr Ole Wen Snowdon with Grib Goch to the left Elidir Fawr from Pen yr Ole Wen Elidir Fawr from Pen yr Ole Wen Ffynnon Lloer from Pen yr Ole Wen Nicky on pinnacle on Carnedd Fach Nicky on the summit of Carnedd Dafydd Cwm Pen-Llafar from the Cefn Ysgolion Duon ridge Wild Carneddau ponies in Cwm Llugwy below Myself on Carnedd Llewelyn with High Carneddau behind Yr Elen from Carnedd Llewelyn Carnedd Llewelyn above Ffynnon Caseg from Yr Elen Ffynnon Llugwy from Bwlch Eryl Farchog



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Images from June 7th 2008.




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