Derwent Edge from Fairholmes

 

Difficulty : ModerateDuration : 4.5 HrsDistance : 14 Km

 
This is a trek with a real mix of scenery and variety of terrain. The trek involves easy strolls alongside the Derwent Valley's huge Ladybower and Derwent Reservoirs. The walk then involves a pleasant and quiet moorland climb up Abbey Brook to Little Howden Moor and eventually onto the Derwent Edge ridge starting with Lost Lad and the highest point Back Tor. The route then takes you along the rough ridge path to Derwent Edge and some fascinating grit stone formations including the famous Cellar Stone and Wheel Stones. The panoramic views stretch from The Great Ridge to the higher plateaus of Kinder and Bleaklow over the Ladybower and Derwent Reservoirs below. The walk then descends through bracken paths to Grindle Clough before heading back along Ladybower Reservoir and back to Fairholmes.


Full route description for this walk

 

The start of the trek is the Fairholmes car park just a mile up the small road that leads away from the A57 Snake Pass road at the Ladybower Reservoir bridge. Fairholmes is the main hub of all activities in the Derwent Valley and is well looked after and maintained by Severn Trent Water and the National Trust. Fairholmes is situated just below the Derwent Dam and was originally a farm in the now ancient Derwent Valley community that was sacrificed for the building of the famous Ladybower, Derwent and Howden dams and Fairholmes was also used as a base for many of the engineering activities that were involved in the building of the dams. These days however Fairholmes is now home to a National Trust shop and visitors centre and an excellent tea room and cafe. The car park isn't expensive compared to most places and the facilities are excellent.

Ladybower Bridge

Ladybower Bridge

Ladybower Reservoir

Ladybower Reservoir

From Fairholmes follow the signs for Derwent Dam and after following the track along side the outflow from the dam you will eventually be staring at a huge wall with two towers, one either side. This is one of three major dams built in the valley to provide water to the cities and town of the North and East Midlands. The Howden and Derwent dams were built between 1901 and 1916, they were finally opened in 1916 by King George V. The lower down Ladybower reservoir was built between 1935 and 1945 and was officially opened by King George VI.

Sadly the construction of the dams spelt the end of the existing civilizations in the Derwent Valley. The dams were subject to much controversy as the valley was to loose the villages of Derwent and Ashopton, now known as the Drowned Villages they can be seen at times of drought. Despite the darkened past of the building of the dams no one can deny they really are something too look at, unlike most dams that are usually created using concrete, the dams of the Derwent Valley do have a certain charm about them. The dams were built using local millstone grit blocks and are designed with a charming victorian gothic style.

Derwent Dam

Derwent Dam

Howden Dam

Howden Dam

The full story of the dams and the dramatic changes the valley went through in the early 20th century can be read about in the National Trusts visitor centre at Fairholmes. Sadly the construction of the dams spelt the end of a few small communities in the Derwent Valley. I find it hard to believe that the valley as it is today is only a hundred or so years old as it has developed into such a beautiful and some what peaceful place that is loved and used by thousands of people.

The path passes the front of the dam wall to the right tower and then leads up steps to the right of the tower and joins the bridleway that then hugs the banks of the Derwent Reservoir. The track crosses Hollin Clough then Walker's Clough as it follows the waters edge and Hancock Wood and Plantation. At the Abbey Tip Plantation the path splits and here you need to follow the path leading off to the right through the forest, follow this track up to a gate which heads up onto the Little Howden Moor and is sign posted by a small National Trust sign. Incidentally if you happen to get to the bridge that crosses Abbey Brook then you have gone too far so simply follow your footsteps back about a hundred yards and find the Little Howden Moor track.

Derwent Reservoir

Derwent Reservoir

Abbey Brook

Abbey Brook

The track leads steeply up Little Howden Moor giving great views out to the left over the deep clough of Abbey Brook. After the track tops out on heather moorland after a mile or so you will see a stile on the left, from here you should now be able to make out the hill of Lost Lad Hill End. Cross the stile and head in that direction following an old track through a small stream at the top of a small clough and then over flatter moorland being careful not to disturb the Red Grouse that thrive here and more recently Black Grouse have been successfully re-introduced to this particular area. On this quieter area you may well see the odd Mountain Hare too. Once at Lost Lad Hill End a small climb up a steep path is required until you eventually reach the actual summit of Lost Lad with its large cairn and a toposcope memorial erected by the Sheffield Clarion Ramblers.

Lost Lad

Lost Lad

Back Tor

Back Tor

The hill of Lost Lad gets its name and its impressive cairn from a story of a shepard boy who got lost and lost his life on the moors in a severe blizzard. It wasn't until the spring that another shepard passing by found the lost shepard's body and by it written on a rock was the words "Lost Lad". From the summit of Lost Lad the highest point of the trek Back Tor is visible and easily reached by an obvious footpath.

The 538M summit of Back Tor has some very impressive grit stone formations and its summit trig point isn't the easiest I've climbed to despite its obvious appearance it is actually set on top of the grit stone rock formations so requires a bit of scrambling to actually bag. The views from Back Tor are quite unique, there aren't many places in the Peak you can see so many of its highest features. The Great Ridge, Derwent Valley Reservoirs, Stanage Edge, Bleaklow and Kinder Plateau can also be seen from this viewpoint and all seem so close. From Back Tor head south along the ridge path in the direction of the craggy Derwent Edge passing two bizarre looking round rocks on the way known as the Cakes Of Bread.

Salt Cellar

Salt Cellar

Wheel Stones

Wheel Stones

The path which is often flagged now heads past Derwent Edge which is best seen by leaving the path and heading at it from slightly down the hill side to appreciate it from below. The high point behind Derwent Edge is known as Dovestone Tor. In the distance you should now be able to see the Salt Cellar rock. This fantastic piece of weather sculpted grit stone stands proud and quite lonely above Ladybower reservoir and gets its name from its visual similarity with a salt cellar. After passing White Tor you will come across probably the most awesome grit stone rock structure on the trek, Wheel Stones or Coach and Horses as its known to the locals as from down in the valley below it looks like a stage coach and horses on the hill.

After a few hundred yards from the Wheel Stones the path comes to a cross roads where it meets the bridleway Take the path to the right that heads back down towards Ladybower Reservoir through a hill of deep bracken. The path then joins a track that leads down the side of a forestry plantation until it reaches the old barns at Grindle Clough, one being that old it still has its 1647AD dated lintel on the outside and another that has been made into a shelter for walkers in rainy weather. The path goes through a gate and a steep slippery section of path until it reaches the road. Head north along the reservoir road for a mile or so to get back to Howden Dam then Fairholmes at the start of the walk.

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